Buying and Using an Airbrush
Jim Ryan
One of the most useful finishing tools the scale modeler can own is
a good airbrush. While some modelers (especially giant scale
enthusiasts)
prefer automotive detail guns for painting their creations, nothing
else
quite matches the pin-point control and convenience of a good quality
airbrush.
A good airbrush is light, easy to handle, and quick to clean up.
1. Types of Brushes:
There are two general ways of grouping airbrushes into classes:
They're
either external or internal mix, and the paint metering is either
single-
or double-action. Here's what these terms mean:
External Mix: Liquid paint is introduced into the compressed
air stream outside the tip of the brush. In general, this type of brush
is considered faster to clean, but it requires careful adjustment and
doesn't
tend to produce as fine a pattern as an internal-mix brush.
Internal Mix: Paint is mixed with air in an internal plenum
in
the brush. Because of the multiple air jets and the internal mixing,
the
paint is usually more fully atomized, resulting in a finer, tighter
spray
pattern. I also find this type of brush easier to assemble, in that
it's
essentially self-adjusting.
Single-Action: The air valve is simply depressed to release
air,
and the resulting venturi effect at the tip draws paint from the mixing
cup or jar. Adjusting the paint flow, if possible at all, has to be set
between shots.
Double-Action: On a double-action airbrush, depressing the
air
valve releases air only, and the brush has a separate internal needle
valve
for controlling paint flow. To operate the brush, you depress the
button
to start air flowing, then you rock the button backward to release
paint
into the air stream. While it takes a little practice to get used to,
this
allows you to constantly adjust the paint flow to suit your needs.
Believe
me, this micro control is a tremendous asset.
Generally speaking (there are exceptions to every rule), the
cheapest
models are single-action/external mix, and the best units are
double-action/internal
mix. Photos 1 and 2 show examples of both types.
2. Air Sources:
Of course, you can't use an airbrush without air, so I'd like to
take
a moment to touch on some compressed air sources: One of the simplest
and
cheapest air sources is a large spare tire, with an appropriate valve
to
mate with your airbrush's air line. A similar option is a compressed
air
bubble. The weakness of both these options is that you have to visit a
gas station to re-fill them, and that can get a little old after the
6th
or 7th trip.
A more compact choice is aerosol cans of ozone-safe propellant.
These
have the virtues of being compact and quiet, but you once again have
the
problem of running out of propellant right in the middle of a painting
session. Besides, by the time you've purchased half a dozen cans of
propellant,
you could have paid for a good compressor.
When most people think of air compressors, a piston compressor with
air tank comes to mind. This type of compressor works very well, but
the
clattering racket it produces can annoy family members.
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I'm fully aware that some of you are already using modified Freon or
propane tanks for compressed air tanks. I do not recommend this. First
of all, these light-duty tanks are made from stamped sheet metal and
are
not designed for repeated high pressure use. Second, with no water trap
or interior coating, they're prone to corrosion that will further
weaken
them over time. With all the other options, this just isn't a good
trade-off.
3. Masking Materials and
Techniques:
Even with the pinpoint control of an airbrush, there are going to be
times when you need masking of some kind. I'd like to loosely group
masks
into two classes; those that provide a soft edge and those that provide
a hard edge.
Soft-edge Masks: Some of the color boundaries on a scale
model
are more defined than even an airbrush can provide, and yet they aren't
hard enough for traditional masking. An example is the jagged splinter
camo on the upper surfaces of WWII Luftwaffe aircraft. Also, the model
may need a feathered line, but it might be longer and straighter than
your
wandering hands are capable of replicating reliably. A typical example
of this is the three-tone camo seen on mid-WWII US Navy aircraft.
In these cases, I make a mask out of posterboard, sheet styrene or
other
material. This mask can either be laid directly on the surface for a
fairly
hard edge, or held farther from the surface for a progressively softer
effect.
Hard-edge Masks: There are a lot of options for masking hard
edges. Good old masking tape has its adherents (no pun intended), but
in
my opinion, there are better choices. If you do want to use paper
masking
tape, I recommend 3M 2090, a lower tack professional grade tape that's
blue in color. This low-tack property is very desirable if you've ever
peeled off the paint along with the tape. My personal choice for
masking
tape is 3M 218, a vinyl striping tape. This material has low-tack,
excellent
flexibility for masking curved lines, and provides a razor-sharp edge
with
almost no chance of bleeds.
For masking numbers, insignias and other graphics, I like to use
artist's
frisket. This sheet materi